It’s pure joy for me to go down memory lane and revisit the pretty village of Cookham, located in Berkshire on the River Thames. You can find it between the towns of Maidenhead and Marlow and it is so lovely to walk around. It also has, for a relatively small place, got a lot of interesting facts about it which we will get into under the sight-seeing section!
It was established in the bronze age and started off with a mere 57 inhabitants! It once consisted of six estates, and most were held by local gentry. It is comprised of three little villages, Cookham Village, which we will focus on, Cookham Rise and Cookham Dean. The area is a highly desirable and expensive area now and it’s easy to see why. It’s picture postcard pretty with many dreamy houses dating back to the 16 and 17 centuries.
Driving to Cookham from whichever direction you come, will give you a very pleasant countryside view with rolling hills all around you. Parking is quite limited in the village, especially at weekends when it naturally is busier, but you may be able to find spaces at either the National Trust Car Park or Sutton Road car park. If you were born lucky you may be able to grab a spot on the High Street. There are a few residential side streets too but be warned you’ll be competing with many others for spaces potentially! If you are coming by train, you can get there from London / Reading by changing at Maidenhead. It’s about a 15 min walk from the station to the centre of the high street.
So lets take a look at Cookham in more detail…
Walkers
An absolutely beautiful area to explore. This was just 10 mins from my house when lockdown was in force and so for walking, fresh air and picnics, I couldn’t have asked for better open spaces really. You can follow the river along, from the national trust car park in either direction; we walked to Marlow and back (about 3 hours in total), you can stop at or on the way to Marlow at Bourne End, another village along route (there is also a pub there along the river walk, called the Bounty, which is a handy pitstop!). And we walked across and around plenty of Cock Marsh, which is behind Bourne End and an expansive area of natural beauty. We climbed the Winter Hill Viewing Point to look at the views and listen and see the train that roars along every now. There’s a great route that we followed through Cock Marsh, that you can check out here.
Alternatively, you can head the opposite direction from Marlow and make your way to the fantastic Cliveden House. You can walk the perimeter of Cliveden House but if you have the time and money spare, walking the grounds of the house is amazing thing to do.
Even just doing a moderate amble along the river looking at all the incredible and different huge houses on the river is a fun activity, pointing out your favourites and soaking in some sunshine.
Food and Drinks
There are a few great pubs in Cookham and here’s my take on them. However, it’s not just pubs you will find here; foodies you are in for a MASSIVE treat.
Kings Arms stands prominently in the centre of the high street, the food and atmosphere are great, it’s a place that just goes on and on it seems and is often popular. I wonder if they still do live music on a Sunday as I used to love that, a roast dinner, and a bit of live music! It was originally a stopping coach between Reading and Windsor years and years and years ago but now stands tall in as a pub and restaurant.
The Ferry is another lovely relaxed and stylish country pub, with its own small but handy car park. Situated right on the river (benefits from morning sun the best though), it is another huge place perfect for small or large parties.
The White Oak was one of my all-time favourite places to eat and drink (more of a restaurant than pub but you could stop in for a drink). The interior, staff, food everything is just absolute perfection.
The Bel & Dragon; this is a small chain of restaurants but this one is especially beautiful inside. Considered one of the oldest licensed houses in England and built in 1417 it really is lovely. I think you can never go wrong with food from here either. For me, Bel and Dragon is the original gastropub!
The Crown of Cookham; I have had some amazing meals and catch ups here- they have a great garden that is a total sun trap and it’s a popular place to be. Equally as cosy in the wintertime too.
Maliks is an EXCEPTIONAL Indian restaurant in my opinion (and if you can’t get in here, try the one in Marlow)
On my list to try:
The Old Swan Uppers – next door to the White Oak and looks like a great place to relax and eat
The Jolly Farmer- based in Cookham Dean, another cosy and welcoming looking place
Uncle Toms Cabin – this is based more in Cookham Dean, it looks so nice and I think you can see the last of the sun from their pub garden too
Anong Thai
Café’s
If you are looking for more of a light bite / lunch, then I can recommend the gorgeous Parea Artisan Café and Delisserie, and the Teapot Tea Shop, which is so quaint and lovely.
Shoppers
In Cookham Village high street, there are quite a few shops to pop into.
Some of my favourites are:
Old Butchers Wine Cellarwhere you can also sit and have a wine tasting evening with locally sourced dishes too
There are also a few shops up by Cookham Station; I’ve always been driving and so I haven’t stopped to check them out before so that is on my list!
Places to stay
There are a few places you could stay for the night and as I lived so close by I could never justify it but the Sanctum on the Green in Cookham Dean looks amazing, and I like the idea of staying at the Bel & Dragon too for its history. You could also stay at the Crown so plenty of options!
Sightseeing
I think there are plenty of little facts and interesting places to look at in Cookham. Many times, I have walked around and found an interesting house or otherwise to google more about. So, I will tell you what I know!
On Cookham Bridge at one end of the high street, you’ll see an old Toll House which was built in the 19th Century. It’s octagonal in shape at the bridge and of course if you walk to the bridge, you’ll have a lovely view of it. The bridge stopped being a toll bridge in the late 1940’s when the bridge and house were purchased privately.
There are also royal connections to this village, with Henry VIII giving the original Tarrystone House (found on Sutton Road as you come into the village from Maidenhead direction) to Anne of Cleeves in their divorce settlement.
It was also home to the famous artist Sir Stanley Spencer; he was born on Sutton Road and there’s a gallery now at the Kings Hall; many of his paintings are of the area and the people that lived there.
A fun fact: Wind in the Willows was written by Kenneth Grahame whilst he was at Herries School in Cookham Dean, with references to Cookham.
Lullebrooke Manor was built in the 13th century. The Manor and grounds were bought by John Lewis Partnership and it is now used as a country club. (It’s more commonly known as the Odney Club, which was built on the original manor house site). I was lucky enough to attend an event here a few years ago and honestly, it really does feel special.
And now for a more modern day look, if you are visiting and can tie in a visit in September you’ll not want to miss the annual Regatta, a really fun event.
Would I return?
I have so many fond memories of this village, that I possibly wouldn’t make a special effort to go there again, but if I found myself invited (hint hint friends nearby) or was passing through and had the time, I would definitely stop again. I hope you find yourself on a lovely river stroll there one day.
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